WORMING
As with all other animals or Livestock we would recommend a regular worming regime. 3 to 4 times a year with a licenced
product. We would recommend Flubenvet. This is administered in the feed for 7 consecutive days. Please note, no other treats
or feed should be given whilst worming as you want them to eat only the feed with the wormer in.
We would also recommend worming when getting new hens, moving/stressing them or introducing to a new flock.
We would always recommend a licensed product for worming. Please note that Verm x is a herbal product which does not
contain any active ingredients and is NOT licensed. This however could help to “promote good internal health and digestive
system”.
LICE AND MITES
Again as with any other animals like cats and dogs it is recommended that you use a treatment for external parasites.
We recommend using Diatomaceous earth. This is a naturally occurring siliceous sedimentary rock that has been crumbled into
a fine white to off-white powder. This powder has many uses and is used in a wide range of products.
Apply the powder to the chickens, dusting it into the feathers and close to the skin.
When you clean out the coop, dust it onto their bedding. If they have a dust bath you can sprinkle the powder in there also.
As this is a very natural product you can use as often as you wish.
We would say this is more of a preventative recommendation and just good practice to help prevent lice and mites. If you do find
a mite or lice problem there are several products on the market to treat the birds and housing.
SCALY LEG
This is caused by a mite that gets underneath the scales in the leg. This causes the scales to become raised and distorted. It can
make the chicken feel unwell and needs to be treated. There are products / sprays available to treat scaly leg. Also coating the
legs in Vaseline works well as it suffocates the mites and therefore breaks the cycle.
HYGIENE
Good hygiene is a must.
Keeping feeder and drinkers clean. Raising feeders off the ground slightly can help deter vermin.
Clean out coops/hen houses regularly and use fresh clean bedding. Dusting Diatomaceous earth powder in their bedding can
also help keep mites at bay.
Deep clean and disinfecting coops monthly is also good practice.
HENS NOT LAYING
There could be several reasons for this.
If the hens are still too young they may not lay.
Makes sure you have checked for all the issues raised on this page. Use a good quality feed high in protein. Make sure they are
free from worms and mites, and treat as required.
If they are going through a moult they will usually stop laying. Also, in the cold winter months with short days egg production will
slow and sometime stop.
EGG BOUND
This is where a hen has an egg that is stuck and she is struggling to pass.
Symptoms
Excessive time in the nest box, tail pumping (tail bobbing), failure to produce eggs, apparent straining.
Causes could include large oversized eggs or a calcium deficiency.
If your hen is egg bound, give them a warm bath and then use a lubricant such as Vaseline, massaged around the vent. Put the
hen in a dark secluded area away from the other hens. Placing a warm hot water bottle under her can also help. Hopefully then
the hen will be able to pass the egg.
If the hen still has not passed the egg and shows signs of distress then you will need to seek veterinary advice.
SOUR CROP
This is caused by a yeast infection which makes the crop lining sore and inflamed. It is sometimes called thrush and can be
successfully treated.
Symptoms
A large crop that is filled with watery fluid. The fluid is often brown and has a bad smell. The hen may also flick her head quite
often.
It can be caused be mouldy or damp food or following a course of antibiotics.
To help treat this, gently hold the bird upside down and massage the crop to allow the fluid to drain from the beak. This may
need to be done a few times over the course of a few days.
Withhold food and water for the initial 24 hours to allow the crop to empty naturally. On an empty crop use diluted apple cider
vinegar (according to the manufacturer’s guidelines) and syringe into the side of the beak. After 12 hours a small amount of
tepid water and soft feed can be given. Then monitor to ensure the sour crop has not returned and gradually increase food and
water to normal rations.
If symptoms still persist and do not improve then you may need to seek veterinary advice.
IMPACTED CROP
In the morning the crop should and will gradually increase throughout the day as the bird eats. When the hen is full the crop
should be around the size of a tangerine. The feed will then pass through the gizzard and the cycle begins again.
An impacted crop will feel hard and can be caused by eating long grass, hay and other things that they shouldn’t eat.
If your bird has an impacted crop, isolate them from their food source but allow access to water. Use 10ml of olive oil slowly
syringed into the beak. Wait 10 minutes and then massage the crop to try and soften and loosen the blockage. Repeat twice
more with the olive oil every couple of hours.
Monitor the bird’s droppings for quantity and texture. If the bird is producing droppings the crop is not totally blocked.
If you crop does not reduce or the problem improve then you may need to seek veterinary advice.
COOPS AND RUNS
Chicken coops should ideally have perches with 23/25cm per bird (large fowl). If you buy a coop, check the manufacturer’s
guidelines for the recommended amount of birds it should house.
Runs should have a minimum of 1 sq metre per hen but 2 sq metres per hen is preferable but obviously the more space you can
give the hens the better.
FEEDING
Chickens should always have access to fresh clean drinking water preferably using a poultry drinker.
We recommend feeding layers pellets as this is the best way to give your poultry a balanced diet and ensure a good egg
production. Layers mash can also be used but I find mash can be a bit more messy and wasteful. Poultry feeders are the best
type of containers for chicken feed.